Azzedine Alaïa est un styliste et un grand couturier franco-tunisien, installé en France. Il aborde la couture durant sa jeunesse à Tunis et suit des études de sculpture. Il arrive à Paris à la fin des années 1950. Hébergé en échange de petits travaux, il apprend les techniques de la confection et développe une clientèle privée. En pleine période de renouveau de la mode à l’aube des années 1980, il décide finalement de créer la marque Azzedine Alaïa. Ami des plus célèbres mannequins dont Stephanie Seymour et Naomi Campbell, il est rapidement remarqué puis « adulé » par les magazines de mode pour ses créations le plus souvent sexy. Il se fait connaitre plus largement par le public en une dizaine d’années. Vers le milieu des années 1990, il est moins présent sur la scène de la mode mondiale, la presse se montrant critique puis absente.Après diverses rétrospectives dans plusieurs musées du monde, il entre dans la très stricte haute couture en 2011.
Peu prolixe et répondant rarement aux interviews, il sait depuis des décennies survoler les modes avec succès et indépendance, sans jamais se soucier des impératifs de tempo ou des tendances liés à ce domaine. Azzedine Alaïa est devenu en un demi-siècle, sans publicité ni promotion pour ses vêtements qu’il présente le plus souvent de façon privée, internationalement reconnu avec ses robes sculpturales.
The Years of Cristobal Balenciaga
1895 Cristobal Balenciaga was born in Getaria in the Basque region of Spain.
1919 Open his first haute couture house in San Sebastian.
1937 -1938 Open his fashion house at 10 Avenue George V in Paris. Presentation of his first collection greeted with immediate success by press and buyers.
1946-1947 Launch of the barrel -line and embroidered boleros. Creation of the first BALENCIAGA perfume : «Le Dix».
1948-1949 Open his first BALENCIAGA shop at 10 Avenue GeorgeV Create his second perfume : “la fuite des Heures”.
1952 Creation of a fluid, comfortable theme. Launch of his first boxy suits.
1953 Waistlines drop to hip level transforming the silhouette.
1955 Creates his first tunic and third perfume : «Quadrille».
1957 His simplified lines continue a fashion revolution.
1958 Creation of the “Baby-Doll” dresses. Abraham creates the fabric “gazar, much used by BALENCIAGA. He is awarded the legion of honour.
1959 Suits are presented with short jackets and higher waistlines.
1961-1962 Evening gowns a la Zurbaran, duenna’s dresses and magnificent negligees.
1963 Launches a range of boots presented with his sports outfits.
1967 His collection is praised for its mastery and originality. Introduction of increasingly pure and abstract forms.
1968 Designs the air hostess uniforms for Air France. Presents his last collection, and retires to his house in Spain after 30 years of innovation in the fashion industry.
1972 Death of Cristobal Balenciaga on March 24 1972, in Javea, Spain. He is buried in his native Basque region.
1978 The brand BALENCIAGA is acquiert by Hoechst (via its fragrance subsidiary Marbert).
1986 The brand BALENCIAGA is acquiert by the Groupe Jacques Bogart.
1997 Nicolas Ghesquière becomes the Creative Director.
2001 Gucci Groupin partners with Nicolas Ghesquière as creative director, acquires the House of Balenciaga.
2003 Revamping of the Balenciaga flagship store on Avenue George V in Paris and the opening of the 22nd Street store in New York , featuring a new concept developed in collaboration with the French artist Dominique Gonzales-Foerster.
2006 ”Balenciaga Paris” exhibition at the prestigious Musée de la Mode et du Textile in Paris and publishing of the book ‘Balenciaga Paris’ by the Thames & Hudson / Les arts décoratifs editions.
2007 Balenciaga and Vogue co-sponsor a major exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute in New York in homage to the life and design of Poiret.
Opening of the flagship store in Milan.
2008 Opening of the London flagship store, the Los Angeles flagship store, the Cannes store and the Las Vegas Forum Shops.
Acquisition of the Japanese joint venture BALENCIAGA Japan.
2010 Launch of the first fragrance created by Nicholas Guesquière for Balenciaga : BALENCIAGA.PARIS, with Charlotte Gainsbourg as the muse. “ Balenciaga Spanish Master” exhibition at the Queen Sofia Spanish Institute in New York.
2011 exhibition “ Balenciaga and Spain ” at the Young Fine Art Museum of San Francisco.
2012 “Cristobal Balenciaga collector of fashions” exhibition at Les Docks de la Mode et du Design Paris. Launch of the third Fragrance, FLORABOTANICA with Kristen Stewart as the muse. Opening of a second boutique in Paris rue Saint Honoré. Alexander Wang is appointed Creative Director.
October 2009, Paris: Phoebe Philo presents her first CÉLINE catwalk show for Spring/Summer 2010.
The collection encapsulates the spirit of CÉLINE: functional clothes with a particular focus on materials and subtle tailoring.
Simple, right, the CÉLINE style gets straight to the heart of the matter with a timeless collection of strong basics and elegant, modern lines.
The accent is on trousers, jackets and other pieces that can be combined easily and in different ways, for a style that is always accessible.
The new era of CÉLINE is now driven by the principles of Phoebe Philo. She perpetuates a sense of subtle luxury which originated with Céline Vipiana, the label’s founder, and continues today in the fine materials and quality workmanship.
Christopher Kane, the label, started in 2006. It was begun almost immediately after Kane’s graduation, capitalising on the success of his award winning MA collection that had gathered much media attention. It was the debut Spring-Summer 2007 collection that was shown in London later that year, and attracted widespread acclaim as well as immediate sales.
It is the emotional and creative relationship between Christopher and Tammy Kane that is at the heart of the company. While Christopher Kane is Creative Director, Tammy Kane is both business partner and Deputy Creative Director of the label, she herself trained in fashion and textiles at Galashiels, Heriot-Watt University’s School of Textile and Design.
The design philosophy of Christopher Kane comes from an abstract and personal approach, defined by a mood or a feeling and often comprises elements of autobiography, upbringing and simple observations of life as well as escapism for both Christopher and Tammy. These elements are combined in Christopher’s own drawing process that defines his output as well as his extensive technical skill. It all adds up to collections that transform the ordinary into the extraordinary: embracing the traditional and the trashy, the timeless and the ephemeral, the sleek with the subversive. Yet there is always an ineffable sense of chic.
Having won a multitude of awards and plaudits including three British Fashion Awards in 2007, 2009 and 2011 respectively, and the Vogue Fashion Fund in 2011, the latest high profile American prize is a fashion star award presented to Christopher Kane himself at The Fashion Group International 2013 Night of Stars. The ceremony took place on October 22nd 2013 in New York.
1969 Rei Kawakubo introduced the Comme des Garçons label and started production of women’s wear.
1973 Comme des Garçons Co. Ltd established in Tokyo.
1975 Comme des Garçon Collection introduced and shown in Tokyo.
1978 Comme des Garçons Homme line introduced.
1981 Comme des Garçons Collection introduced and shown in Paris. Robe de chambre Comme des Garçons line introduced. Tricot Comme des Garçons line introduced.
1984 Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Collection introduced and shown in Paris.
1986 Subsidiary company Comme des Garçons Ltd. established New York.
1987 Comme des Garçons Homme Deux line introduced. Comme des Garçons Noir line introduced.
1992 Junya Watanabe Comme des Garçons Collection introduced and shown in Tokyo.
1993 Comme des Garçons Comme des Garçons line introduced. Junya Watanabe Comme des Garçons Collection introduced and shown in Paris.
1994 Comme des Garçons Parfums established in Paris.
2001 Comme des Garçons Junya Watanabe Man Collection introduced and shown in Paris .
2002 Play Comme des Garçons line introduced.
2004 Robe de Chambre Comme des Garçons line united with and re-named Comme des Garçons Comme des Garçons.
2005 Tao Comme des Garçons line introduced. Speedo Comme des Garçons line (swimwear in collaboration with Speedo International UK).
2006 Comme des Garçons Pearl (jewelry) introduced.
2007 Pocket Comme des Garçons introduced. Ganryu line introduced.
2008 Black Comme des Garçons line introduced. Comme des Garçons Homme Deux line changes its logo.
2009 The Beatles Comme des Garçons line introduced.
Disa Allsopp is inspired by the ancient jewellery of the Etruscans, Egyptians and Greek and Roman civilizations. She uses traditional techiniques such as forging, reticulation and patination to produce her unique finishes to the 18kt Gold and Sterling Silver metals that are central to her collections. Her travels to East Africa and her origins in Barbados can be seen in her use of gemstones, with golden Citrines, rich Garnets and Rubies being just a few of the stones that she uses. White and coloured Diamonds are set on unique bands and rough and rare cut gemstones make Disa’s work contemporary and current while maintaining a timeless charm.
All work is individually handmade in her London studio and bears the UK hallmark.
My Name Is Simon Porte Jacquemus, I’m 23 Years Old.
I’m Born In Salon De Provence Between Marseille And Avignon. I’m Self Made, I Like Blue I Like White, I Like Marseille And
I Like The 80’S.
I Made My First Collection In 2009, I Made My First Show
In 2012, Spontaneously.
Each Collection Tells A Precise Story About The Jacquemus Girl, Working In A Factory, Nurse Or 90’S Pop Idol…
Naivety, Raw And Ultra Simplicity Are My Favorite Words When I Talk About My Collections.
Edwina de Charette de la Contrie is the founder and designer at laContrie, a parisian leather goods workshop.
She founded laContrie for different reasons :
she loves bags and is devoted to craftsmanship.
Unable to find the bag or the service she was looking for, Edwina searched for alternatives.
She came across an independent craftsman
and over the course of the days spent in his workshop she caught the leather-working bug.
Her family, a historic constituent of French luxury, instilled strong values of quality and service.
She decided to channel these traits of character
into a workshop providing made-to-measure leather-working service. Today Edwina manifests
her incessant pursuit of balanced proportions, fine materials and customer satisfaction through laContrie.
Although the world of fashion is often considered fickle, there are those whose talents and vision are substantial enough to exempt them from its whims. Johnson Hartig is one such talent.
Launching his own eponymous collection in 2000, and the founding creative force behind Libertine, Hartig has been a constant presence in the fashion industry for a decade. His formative years spent traveling through several continents as well as his keen and cultivated eyes have led him to create the popularly regaled collection, Libertine. His expression through Libertine led him to great success, revolutionizing the way we think of graphics, deconstruction of the classic, and recycled clothing. Through this, Johnson Hartig paved the way for what has become known as ecologically friendly fashion.
His great creative prowess has led to often unusual and intriguing collaborations with luminaries such as Damien Hirst, Goyard, and an influence in the broader market with a line for Target. With over 300 press editorials during his career, industry insiders, editors, celebrities and taste-makers seek Hartig not only for his witty take on the world of fashion, but for his view and contributions in all areas of art and design. Early champions include Anna Wintour, Karl Lagerfeld and John Galliano.
Hartig currently resides in Los Angeles, California and regularly travels throughout the world, fueling his creative growth and further expressions.
MARIE HELENE DE TAILLAC
MARIE HELENE DE TAILLAC
All that glitters is not gold. It may be sapphires, spinels or tourmalines.
When she unveiled her signature collection in 1996, Marie-Hélène de Taillac stirred a revolution in the stuffy world of fine jewelry. Up until that time, most women found it difficult to wear “real” gems. Being fashionable and wearing jewelry were simply incompatible.
A passion for colors combined with a fascination with jewels and traveling prompted de Taillac to invent a style that would showcase the stones themselves, once and for all. It was an instant success. Her first clients were Barneys in New York, Browns in London and Colette in Paris.
After starting her career in fashion and working in London for 14 years with designers including Dinny Hall, Victor Edelstein and Philip Treacy, de Taillac decided to return to her first love: gemstones and color.
A decisive moment came when she met with some of the finest artisans in India, who still work according to traditional methods dating back to the maharajahs. It was then that de Taillac knew she had found what she’d been looking for: exceptional gems and authentic savoir-faire. She stayed on to create her daring and now famous gemstone “arrangements”.
Thanks to her vision, the droplet-shaped briolette, a cut traditionally reserved for diamonds, was finally used for colored stones. She defied convention by pairing precious and semi-precious stones. And she refused to limit herself to using only diamonds, rubies, emeralds and sapphires, which she found restrictive given the incredible palette of color that gems could offer.
Thus was born Marie-Hélène de Taillac’s unique, immediately recognizable style.
After inaugurating a first boutique in Tokyo in 2003, she opened another in the Saint-Germain-des-Pres neighborhood on the Left Bank of Paris in 2004.
She opened her third boutique on the very chic Upper East Side (69th Street off Madison Avenue) in New York in 2013.
Founded in 2012, Mansur Gavriel makes simple yet elevated leather goods with Italian leather, constructed in Italy. The philosophy of the brand encompasses the implementation of classic yet refined silhouettes as templates for emphasizing color and material.
The core collection includes classic shapes in high quality, traditional Tuscan vegetable tanned leather, with contrasting interior matte patents in bright and neutral hues, as well as metallic. For fall 2014, Mansur Gavriel introduces a new leather, a sleek, brightly colored calf in a luxury quality, with a more finished look than the raw beauty of the natural. The brightly colored exterior hues mimic the interior pop of the vegetable tanned leather collection.
Rachel and Floriana met at the XX concert in Los Angeles in 2010, and quickly become long distance collaborators. With Rachel based in Los Angeles and Floriana in Berlin, the pair developed the concept long distance for two years with short yet intense working trips back and forth between Germany and the US. In 2012, both Rachel and Floriana moved to New York to officially open the company, launching in stores for the first time in June 2013.
Rachel Mansur has a BFA in Textiles from Rhode Island School of Design. Her expertise lies primarily in material quality, construction, and color theory. Floriana Gavriel has a BFA in Fashion Design from the University of the Arts Bremen in Germany. She has interned and worked at several fashion houses, including Lanvin in Paris.
Following a family tradition, Marion Vidal studies architecture during six years in Paris and Milan. She continues her creative journey at the Fashion Department of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, where she gets her diploma in 2003.
Her first creations put the accessory forward, with metallic armatures and plastrons made of oversize ceramics balls.
She launches her eponym brand in 2004, that is now focused on the accessory –especially jewels.
At the same time, she designs accessories for special projects with renown houses such as Celine, Christofle, Lacoste.
In 2011, she receives the Grand Prix de la Création de la Ville de Paris (Great Prize for Creation, by the City of Paris).
Launched in 1994, Marni is a luxury brand favored by a discerning coterie of international women who are curious and sophisticated: not necessarily fashion-driven, but with a strong identity and a personal vision. The Marni woman is hard to pinpoint. Elusive and arty, she likes to play with forms, prints, textures and colors.
Marni is in fact, essentially, a mindset: slightly out of the schemes and subtly subversive.
It’s a quirky, unpredictable visual language: graphic, rigorous. Consuelo Castiglioni is the author.
The Swiss-born designer conveys her personal sense of elegance and experimental approach to materials and colors, her unique flair for mixing prints and shapes in collections that are at once irreverent and emotional, with an eclectic yet coherent flavor. Age and status are irrelevant to her: she encourages women to express themselves through clothes, mixing pieces from different seasons in endlessly new, utterly individual permutations.
Far from being a diktat, Marni is a range of possibilities. It knows no boundaries or impositions: this is how Consuelo conceives style. Her signature is timeless, her approach avant-garde. In an ongoing dialogue with the art world, Consuelo involves artists, both established and up-and-coming, in special projects for both retail and product.
A family business in the best Italian tradition, Marni is a standout example of the qualities that make the Made in Italy label relevant. Everything, from prototypes to final pieces, is made in-house in the Milano headquarters, ensuring the highest level of quality, something Consuelo does not want to compromise. In 2012 Marni joined OTB Group.
The core business focuses on Women’s Ready to Wear, Bags and Shoes. The lifestyle product lines include Bijoux, Eyewear, Menswear and Accessories, Children’s Wear and Fragrances.
NACO PARIS, French fashion designer
Described by the press as “the only designer who doesn’t like fashion” or “Fashion’s Robin Hood”, NACO PARIS has been creating unisex wear inspired by his personal background, his taste for the arts, the underground and the unusual since 2001.
Ultra-modern aesthetics, minimalism and a punk attitude are combined in his collections in order to denounce the consumption craze promoted by the luxury industry.
Enjoying an international reputation, NACO PARIS’s collections are sold in the world’s most famous fashion cities: Paris, New-York, London, Antwerp, Berlin, Hong-Kong, Copenhagen, Helsinki, Dubaï, Beirut…
His designs have acquired cult status in Japan and are sold in the most fashion-forward shops of Tokyo, Osaka and Nagoya.
NACO PARIS is the designer of the now worldwide famous “Karl Who ?” bag.
GUILLAUME HENRY Guillaume Henry was born in France in 1978. He studied art at Beaux-Arts de Troyes before moving to Paris to enroll in the Ecole Duperré School of Design, Fashion and Creation, and then IFM, the Institut Français de la Mode.
Curious by nature, Henry is inspired by images and music. In 2001 he launched a first collection under his own name. In 2003, he decided to stop his own label and, convinced that he still had much to learn, dedicated himself entirely to studio work at a French couture house.
From 2006 to 2009, Henry designed for the ready-to-wear brand Paule Ka. In 2009, he became the Artistic Director of Carven, a role he held until 2014. During his tenure, the French heritage house enjoyed a much-noted revival and grew into an internationally renowned brand.
On January 1, 2015, Guillaume Henry joined the house of Nina Ricci as Creative Director. Henry dresses today’s woman: the wardrobe he creates for her is desirable and Henry’s fashion captures l’air du temps. Joyful yet sincere, seductive yet natural and above all feminine, the Nina Ricci woman always makes an impression wherever she goes.
Rick Owens Grew Up In Porterville, A Town Of 55,000 In California’s San Joaquin Valley.
Drawn To The Pre-Gentrified Hollywood, Owens Decamped To L.A.’S Punk Underground In The 80S. He Studied Painting At What Is Now Otis College Of Art And Design, Then Switched To Los Angeles Trade Technical College To Learn Pattern- Making And Draping.
Owens Launched His Eponymous Line In 1994. Operating Out Of A Raw Storefront Off Hollywood Boulevard. Early Enthusiasts To Bring International Attention To Owens’ “Glunge” Aesthetic (Glamour Meets Grunge) Include Stylists Arianne Phillips And Panos Yiapanis, Vogue Editor Anna Wintour And Photographer Corinne Day—Who Shot Kate Moss For Carine Roitfeld’s Paris Vogue In His Clothing.
In 2002 The Council Of Fashion Designers Of America Honored Owens With The Perry Ellis Award For Emerging Talent. In 2007, Cooper Hewitt Gave Him Its National Design Award, And Fashion Group International Honored Him Among Its Annual List Of Rule Breakers.
Anna Wintour And American Vogue Underwrote His First Runway Show, In New York, And The Legendary French Fur Label Revillon Hired Him To Modernize Their Centuries-Old House. Owens Also Launched Menswear In 2002, Which He Continues To Show Bi-Annually At Men’s Fashion Week.
Owens Moved To Paris In 2003, Setting Up His Home And Atelier Inside A Historic Five-Storey Building That Previously Served As Offices For Former French President Francois Mitterand. His Runway Collections Have Been Mounted In Paris Since Then.
The Collections That Complement The Original Label For Women And For Mens Include Liliesrickowens, Drkshdw (Denim-Based) And Hunrickowens (Furs). In Addition To Being Carried In Specialty Boutiques Worldwide, The First Rick Owens Flagship Boutique Opened In The Palais Royal Of Paris In 2006; Stand-Alone Stores In London, Milan, New York, Miami, Tokyo, Hong Kong And Seoul Have Followed.
In 2007, Owens’ Wife, Michele Lamy, Began Developing And Producing The Furniture He Had Built For Their Personal Use. The Furniture Shows Regularly At International Design Fairs Including Art Basel/Switzerland, Art Basel/Miami Art Dubai, And Tefaf Maastricht, In Addition To Individual Gallery Exhibitions In Paris, London And New York.
Three Large-Format Hardcover Books Chronicling Owens’ Work Have Appeared: L’ai-Je Bien Descendu; Rick Owens (A Rizzoli Monograph); And Rick Owens (Taschen) By Terry Jones, The Founder And Creative Director Of I-D Magazine.
“I Try To Make Clothes The Way Lou Reed Did Music,” Says Owens. “Direct, With Minimal Chord Changes, And Sweet But Kind Of Creepy. It’s About Giving Everything I Make A Worn, Softened Feeling. It’s About An Elegance Tinged With A Bit Of The Barbaric, The Sloppiness Of Something Dragging And The Luxury Of Not Caring.”
Serge THORAVAL is born in Paris, at the bottom of the stairs of the Sacred Heart of Montmartre; as a young boy, he wants to be an engineer and spends hours on detailed drafts of a car, moved by elastic bands.
In 1989, jeweller friends ask him to help them sowder accessories for the Yves St Laurent collection they worked at; this meeting is the trigger for his creativity, and within a year, Serge has produced his first personnal pieces, and works in collaboration with various fashion designers on accessories and jewellery for their shows:
=> Thierry Mugler (1990 – 1991) => Claude Montana (1991 – 1993) => Lanvin Haute Couture (1992) => Joseph (1993)
He also designs lines of jewellery for Agnes B, Sonia Rykiel and Paco Rabanne.
In 1994, with the help of his partner, Geneviève, Serge opens his workshop and for the first time shows his own range at the salon 1ere Classe in Paris.
They are immediatly contacted by japonese and italian agents, and by the journalists of influent magazines such as Elle, Madame Figaro and Women Wear Daily . In spite of the rising interest in their work, and the growing requests of customers, Serge and Geneviève are careful to maintain their way of working and producing. All items are made in France, and finished by hand in their work- shop.
One by one, dedicated craftmen come and join them as assistants to Serge. Beeing self-thaught, Serge has an intuitive way of working and etching the metal, unusual in jewellery, as described by his friend Francis, owner of the “Grand Magasin” in St Rémy de Provence:
“ From the simplest piece of silver, gold or metal, he knew the very core; as if he had a privileged, intimate, exclusive relationship with the metal. His jewellery became tatoos one could not give up, bearer of messages, thoughts, confidences, reflected images, confessions or complicities, almost like a second skin”.
All the strengh in this work comes from his poetic, intimate world etched on beaten, wrestled metal bent into sensual shapes; hammered gold, sil- ver and bronze, delicate mesh bracelets and rings, mixture of cristal and stones.
In january 1999, Serge dies in a motorcycle accident in Paris.
Since june 2000, The workshop, Atelier Serge Thoraval, keeps producing the jewellery he created, under the care of Geneviève and of Serge’s assistants, for an ever increasing number of S.T. fans.
The opening of a new shop in Tokyo, the presentation of the collection in New York through H.P.’s showroom and Destination shop, the enhencing of new collections created in the spirit and with the “savoir-faire” of the Atelier are motivating events showing the vitality and energy with which we want to keep carrying our brand towards the future, with all the respect due to its past and all the curiosity and interest in what lays ahead.
For her spring/summer collection, Sofie D’Hoore has sought inspiration in an exceptional range of fabrics – crisp cotton poplin, malleable cotton satin, a compact double twill, robust denim, gabardine, silk crêpe and a brand new double-faced, bi-coloured satin duchesse – and created a tightly edited group of dresses and separates.
The highlight of the summer is Sofie D’Hoore’s exclusive collection of patterned fabrics: a range of vintage, mid-twentieth-century Dutch Wax prints that have been expertly reproduced on the finest cottons and, in a break with tradition, silks.
The history of Dutch wax prints (also known as Hollandais, African or Ghanaian wax prints) stretches across several centuries and three continents. Although perceived as being typically African, the origins of the fabric date back to West Africa’s colonial past when European settlers, particularly the Dutch, devised a commercially viable way of producing printed cotton textiles that could rival Javanese batik work. Made using a wax-resist process, the resulting fabrics are still extremely popular in West Africa and throughout Europe. D’Hoore’s prints are, however, rare historic survivals.
From simple silk shift dresses to jaunty cravats, via exuberant print-on-print ensembles, D’Hoore’s print collection – a subtle fusion of tradition and modernity – offers an exciting array of highly original summer wardrobe options. Matching accessories, including wide-brimmed hats and sturdy tote bags, complete the look.
As always, a group of perfectly simple and elegant dresses forms the nucleus of the collection. Recently developed details include a flattering scooped neckline with two stitched pleats and dresses with wide crossover straps. Easy-to-wear models include button through safari styles and classic day dresses with wide, crisp pleats.
D’Hoore has also designed an ensemble of neat, pared down separates, including expertly cut trousers in different widths and lengths and some stylish shorts.
New this season are dresses and trousers in heavyweight, dark blue denim.
Relaxed, t-shirt-style tops in poplin and silk, cropped boxy jackets and three-quarter length duster coats, together with an expanded range of textured knitwear, also form part of the equation.
As ever, D’Hoore’s palette is a carefully calibrated set of contrasting and complementary colours. Classic neutrals include chalk, fondant (brown), aluminium, off-white and optical white plus navy and black, all of which look stunning paired with bright colours such as apple (green), Klein (blue) or marmalade (orange). Powdery, pastel shades (mastic, antique pink) and a deep bottle green add an unusual twist, while the hot, vivid combination of pink and yellow is unashamedly vibrant.
Flat, comfortable sandals with broad leather straps and innovative lightweight brogues – designed to feel as easy on the foot as a pair of canvas running shoes –complement the entire collection.
Designing from her studio nestled in the Hollywood Hills, Los Angeles na8ve, Sonia Boyajian dazzles the world over with her one-of-a-kind jewelry and accessories.
Sonia Boyajian Jewelry can most easily be characterized as stunning wearable sculptures. When seeing her work it comes as liFle surprise that her primary influences are ar8sts Constan8n Brancusi, Alexander Calder and the Golden Age of Hollywood costume designer Edith Head.
She ‘draws and sculpts’ with gold wire crea8ng innova8ve mul8-func8onal pieces. Each piece is carefully hand-craNed while exuding a certain lightness of being.
Sonia’s aesthe8c reveals a mastery of mixing textures, shapes, and colors. Her paleFe is daring and bold, combining precious stones and materials with found objects she collects from her globetroOng adventures, giving them a new life as part of her collec8on of beau8fully engaging curiosi8es.
AW13 “BUGS & BRANCUSI”
When art, nature and jewelry meet, living creatures become exo8c crea8ons.
For her Autumn/Winter 2013 “Bugs & Brancusi” collec8on, Sonia takes inspira8on from the Modernist forms of Constan8n Brancusi sculptures and the natural beauty of the insect kingdom, crea8ng a fairy tale that is full of color and life with a 1930s flair of glamour.
Like a sculptor and painter, Sonia’s techniques involve hand-making her own porcelain forms and signature colors by mixing paints into a muted paleFe of Modigliani-esque hues like robin’s egg blue, saffron, salmon pink, highlighted with speckles and stripes of iridescent gold,
silver and jet black.
Ar]ully marrying bold graphic prints, textures and shapes with semi-precious stones; onyx, cubic zirconia and vintage rhinestone beads, Sonia gives life to these precious wearable creatures.
Werkstatt : München
The work of Munich, Germany based jeweller Klaus Lohmeyer can be found at some of the most acclaimed boutiques worldwide. The jewelry, all hand made in his atelier in the heart of Munich from materials such as silver and leather, is often defined by a refined roughness and solid build.
Born and raised in the Bavarian capital, Lohmeyer studied jewelry design in a highly acclaimed German art school with a strong foundation in craftsmanship. After working in the field for a few years, he returned to finish his diploma, becoming a master craftsman; the highest level of distinction a gold and silversmith can reach. The first Werkstatt : München collection was presented in 1998, followed by annual presentation of collections in Paris and Munich.
The initial catalyst for the line of work was simple ; being unable to find masculine jewellery to his liking. “But the main reason is the joy I take in the art of making jewellery ; it’s just a beautiful work process using beautiful materials end beautiful tools”, Lohmeyer explain.